Garlands and Geishas

Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur's best mall

2010-08-10T15:56:00.000+01:00

You can’t go to KL (Kuala Lumpur) without adding in a little retail therapy to your itinerary! Residents of KL consider shopping one of their favourite things to do, in part to escape the steamy weather outside. So, do as the locals do and head to one of the many malls KL has to offer. There are so many to choose from - from the traditional that sell fake designer gear and handicrafts imported from all over South East Asia, to the glitzy high-end malls that sell the real thing, albeit at a cheaper price than their Western outlets. I’ve decided to concentrate on the Suria KLCC, which I think has the best of both worlds.

The Suria KLCC is one the most luxurious and accessible malls KL has to offer. It is situated at the base of the Petronas Towers and is opulent in design and selection. Designed over six floors, it houses hundreds of stores, restaurants, food courts, a cinema and and even has it's own art gallery. A central atrium anchors the building, and floods the mall with natural light. Luxury brands like Tiffany, Louis Vuitton and Prada dominate one level, while another show cases Malay handicrafts and arts. Western shops such as GAP, Marks and Spencer and M.A.C. are spread out across all levels.

Here are my top picks:

Isetan
The famous Japanese department store is spread over five floors and stocks luxury brands from around the world and costs a fraction of the price you would pay in Western countries, especially during the sales. However, the interesting finds are the products designed and produced in Japan, particularly the exquisite handmade home wares, from lacquered bento boxes to cast-iron tea pots. There is also a good selection of teas on the top floor, like the high end Matcha tea (powdered Japanese green tea) and the famous Boh tea, from the highlands of Malaysia.

Royal Selangor
Founded in 1885 in KL, Royal Selangor specialises in hand crafted and beautifully designed pewter products. The company has won numerous design awards from around the world for their amazing pieces that include jewellery, photo frames, platters, vases and candle sticks. Each piece is part of a collection inspired by themes or objects such as bamboo, traditional Malay motifs or British elegance. While most of the items are expensive, if you were to splurge on one souvenir from Malaysia, this is the store to go to.

Kinokuniya
Kinokuniya is a Japanese bookstore, situated over 2 levels covering just about any subject you can think of, in English, Bahasa Malay, Japanese, Chinese and Arabic. If you have an interest in art and design, you will appreciate the entire level that is dedicated to this area. I could easily spend a couple of hours here.

British India
For unique and beautifully designed clothes, take a look at the British India clothing store. The designs are a fusion of Indian and Western style, made with gorgeous natural fabrics for men and women. The quality is exceptional and the clothes long lasting.

Little Penang Cafe
If you are looking for a cheap and traditional lunch or dinner break, then try the Little Penang Cafe, which is modelled on the coffee houses found on the streets of Penang. It’s a popular lunch time spot for the locals, so be prepared to wait for a table. Specialties include Nasi Lemak Penang (coconut rice with fish in chili sauce, peanuts and egg) and Laksa Lemak (chili and coconut soup with meat, rice noodles and bean sprouts). A typical meal for 2 (including drinks) costs around RM 20 (about $USD 6). The cafe is open from 11.30am to 9.30pm.

Where
Jalan Ampang, in the Golden Triangle. Map

How to get there
Suria KLCC is located at the base of the Petronas Towers. Take the LRT to KLCC station, exiting through the underground tunnel into the mall.

Hours
10am – 10 pm.

More info
Suria KLCC
Isetan KLCC
Royal Selangor
Kinokuniya Malaysia
British India

The best of Singapore, part 1

2010-07-19T17:22:00.001+01:00

Boring, bland, too clean – this is how Singapore is often described. Compared to what, I ask? Sure, the streets aren’t as frenetic as say Hanoi, the nightlife isn’t as decadent as Bangkok, and you can walk down the street without touts trailing after you. But is it bland? The city-state itself is like a mini world tour; you’ve got Little Arabia, Little India, Chinatown and the colonial quarter. You can spend your days sipping kopi in one of the many coffee and teahouses, hop from one elaborately designed temple to another as you take in the city’s varying architectural styles, or visit a range of fascinating museums, including the moving Changi Museum (documenting the events and conditions in Singapore during WWII).

For kids, and big-kids alike, explore the Singapre Zoo on the Night Safari, take a break from city life and chill out in the Botanic Gardens for an afternoon, or head to the garish island of Sentosa for some theme-park fun.

Then there’s the food and shopping! Where else in the world can you pick out Malay silks and batics, heavily discounted camera and computer gear and one-off Singaporean design pieces, while taking time out to grab a laksa, egg tart and chili crab – all within a day! If you can’t tell already, I love Singapore, so I thought I’d share some of my favourite things to do in the city.

Little Arabia
Meandering into the streets of Little Arabia, you forget that you’re in Asia for a while. Patrons in 24-hour cafes spill out onto the pavement, sucking on water pipes and drinking tea apple tea. The impressive golden domes of the Sultan mosque act as a marker to the centre of town, where worshipers mingle about outside, snacking on Middle Eastern treats sold from street stalls parked out front. The streets, beautifully lined with preserved shop houses, are bustling with locals; some transporting huge trays of food into restaurants, others browsing in shops selling rattan baskets, textiles and leather products. It’s a buzzingplace to be at night! Eat at one of the cheap Middle Eastern cafes dotted throughout the neighborhood, they are pretty authentic and cheap. I recommend Samar Café (address and details below); heavily spiced stews, chargrilled koftas and falafel take centre stage.

Asian Civilisations Museum
Housed in a gorgeous 19th century Neoclassical building, the Asian Civilisations Museum is a must for those interested in art and culture from the region. Comprised of 11 galleries, each focuses on the varying influences on Singaporean culture; Chinese, Peranakan, Islam, India and China, to name a few. 7th century Buddha statues, Islamic textiles and Javanese artifacts, dating back to 600 BC, are a taste of what’s on display.

Singapore Sling, at the Raffles Hotel
Let me start off by saying that’s it’s an extortionate price to pay, at $20 SGD! However, sampling a Singapore Sling at the famous Raffles Hotel is one of those “only do once” moments on your travels. The cocktail, invented in 1915 at this very hotel, it’s a mix of gin, cherry brandy, pineapple juice, soda water and Benedictine - sweet enough to give you a toothache! But the real fun is dressing up and playing tycoon at the bar of the hotel that has been graced by the presence of guests including Ava Gardner, Charlie Chaplin and Jean Harlow.

The Night Safari
Yeah its cheesy, but its fun! The Singapore Zoo, set out over 28 hectares, and containing over 4000 animals, is a perfect example of how zoo’s of the future should be designed. Small, enclosed cages have been replaced (with a few wise exceptions!) by moats which separate the animals from the spectators. This rainforest-like environment has over 300 species, including cheetahs, elephants, flying foxes and penguins.

The zoo is also open at night, where visitors go on a "Night Safari", watching nocturnal animals in their habitat. Creep through the poorly lit trails, until you stumble upon a hyena, white tiger or jackal feasting on dinner. Alternatively, you can do this all from the comfort of your seat aboard a tram that whizzes through the jungle.

Bargain electronics
It's no secret that Sinagpore is THE place to pick up bargain computers and electronic equipment. And, normally I couldn't care less about trawling through level upon level of the many IT malls in the city. But, if you are into photography, you may be interested to know that it's worth checking out the Peninsula Plaza to stock up on all your camera gear. I picked up a new Nikon camera, lenses and bag and paid half the price I normally would back home. I recommend Cathay Photo, which is an approved Nikon dealer (they sell other brands too).

Parts 2 and 3 to come a little later...

Samar Cafe
19 Baghdad St Map
Open: 3pm - 3am

Asian Civilisations Museum
1 Empress Place Map
Open: Mondays 1pm-7pm, Tuesday - Sunday 9am-7pm (9pm Friday only)
Admission: $5 SGD, kids under 6 free

Raffles Hotel
2 Stamford Rd Map

Singapore Zoo
80 Mandai Lake Rd Map (see website for options on how to get there)
Open: 8.30-6pm daily
Admission: Adults $18 SGD, kids (3 to 12 years old) $12
Night Safari
Open: 7.30pm-midnight
Admission: Adults $22 SGD, kids (3 to 12 years old) $15
(a daily and night safari ticket can also be purchased)

Cathay Photo
In the Peninsula Plaza (ground floor)
111 North Bridge Rd Map
Open: 10am-7pm (Monday to Saturday)

The best Thai cooking class, in Bangkok

2010-06-22T17:38:00.001+01:00

Many people staying or traveling through Thailand often take a Thai cookery lesson. The reasons vary; some do it to bring ‘a taste of Thailand’ back home to remember their stay or to share with friends and family, others may do it as a way to get to know the culture, learn new skills or to meet like-minded traveler’s. Whatever the reason, it’s a fun, inexpensive and unique experience that’ll surely be the highlight of your time in Thailand.

The next question is, where is the best place to learn Thai cookery? A quick Google search or flip through the Lonely Planet Thailand lists the usual places like Blue Elephant, the Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School and the vast number of hotels and guest-houses offering lessons. These courses often start with a visit to the market in the morning to select the produce, then back to the establishment to cook up a few dishes, followed by a communal lunch or dinner to feast on the results. These courses are hassle-free, lots of fun and cost between 500 – 4000 baht per day.

There is, however, another cooking school that isn’t recognised in the guidebooks, but has a well-known reputation in the culinary world and expats of Thailand – the UFM Baking & Cooking School, in Bangkok. They offer intensive cooking courses that range from 1 day to 4 weeks, and are designed to teach industry professionals (chefs and restaurant entrepreneurs) as well as people who have more time (like expats) or who want to delve deeper into art of Thai cooking.

There are loads of different Thai cookery courses to choose from, like traditional Thai cookery, Thai street food, Thai à la carte, vegetarian Thai, Thai salads, noodles and so on. They also offer various courses in Japanese (including sushi), classic European, Chinese (including Dim Sum and Cantonese) and Vietnamese cookery. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, you might enjoy these courses; Ice cream and ice cream cakes, Thai desserts and Royal Thai desserts.

UFM also has a dedicated baking school with a huge selection of courses including cake decoration, baking cakes, cookies, pies, pastries, bread making and steam buns (to name a few)!

The classes are conducted in Thai and English (if requested in advance), and taught in specially equipped classrooms. The lessons usually start with the instructor explaining what dishes will be made on the day, the origins of the dish, the ingredients used (as well as Western substitutes). Eventually the students head to their workstations to put the demonstrations into practice. It’s a fun and relaxed atmosphere, yet productive an informative too. I did a few courses, and the students were a mix of expats, local restauranteurs, as well as travelers on long-stay holidays in Thailand.

The courses which run for 1 – 4 weeks are usually scheduled for 4 hours a day, either in the morning or afternoon. So, you still have time to sightsee if you’re holidaying in Bangkok!

Compared with the price of other Thai cooking schools or courses mentioned in most guidebooks, UFM is a bargain. For example, one of the courses I attended - Thai Cookery2 - for 2 weeks cost 4000 baht (about USD $125) – a steal at $12 a day!

More info
UFM Baking & Cooking School

Where?
There are two branches in Bangkok – on Sukhumvit Rd and Silom Rd. A new branch has also opened up in Chiang Mai.

Beach getaway of Ko Samui, on the Gulf Coast

2010-06-09T16:01:00.001+01:00

Ko Samui – tropical paradise? Maybe thirty years ago, but with the fast-paced development of the last couple of decades, the island has become more of a pleasure playground for all. As the saying goes, there’s something for everyone; upscale resorts and spas, a thriving nightlife, laid back villages and family-friendly resorts. Not to mention white sand beaches and the famous Ang Thong National Marine Park (better known as the inspiration for The Beach to Leo Dicaprio fans) just a boat ride away. So, if you’re after an easy holiday with everything you need at your fingertips (or beach chair), then Ko Samui is the perfect place to go.

With the recent devastating events taking place in Bangkok and beyond, Ko Samui is a safe retreat from the action.

The island of Ko Samui, roughly 15 kilometres long (each way) is situated on the Gulf Coast of Thailand. First inhabited in the 15th century by Malay and Chinese farmers, the island had largely been isolated from mainland Thailand, where up until the 1990’s, the islands main income was derived from harvesting coconut and rubber. Since then development has exploded and just about every corner of Ko Samui has changed in some way. The islands economy is almost entirely based on tourism now.

The beaches on the east side of the island are the most built up, and busiest, beaches on Ko Samui. The beaches to the north are more laid-back and chilled, and the beaches to the west are relatively quiet, but not as serene as the rest of the island. I stayed in a little apartment overlooking Hat Bo Phut, on the north side of the island.

Popular with couples and families, Bo Phut has a village atmosphere and charm that separates itself from most of the other beaches on Ko Samui. Also known as The Fisherman’s Village, most of the old Chinese merchant houses have been sympathetically preserved.

Every day, the local fishermen can be seen in the distance fishing or digging up cockles.

The beach itself is coarse and rocky in most spots, so I spent my days exploring the other beaches, and the nights back in the village. The village has been likened to a Mediterranean beach town, and at nights you can see why. Laid-back bars and lantern-lit Italian, French and Thai restaurants line the promenade. It’s a relaxing place to have a drink, or a fresh catch from the days fishing, as you look out across the sea to Ko Pha-Ngan.

Getting around the island during the day is no problem at all. Some people hire a jeep or scooter, but I’d advise against this – the island is notorious for accidents involving foreigners and unless you plan on spending your day zipping all over the island, its cheaper and easier to catch a songthaew (open van) for around 50 to 150 baht.

Hat Chaweng is a 6-kilometre stretch of white sand beach and turquoise sea.

The beach is really picturesque from afar, but once you get up close, it’s easy to see how the rapid development has taken its toll; rubbish in the sand, the constant sound of jet-skis and construction noise, and a consistent stream of beach hawkers peddling sarongs, jewelry and sunglasses.

But it’s not all bad – it just takes a little more time to find a quiet spot along the beach! The main street is lined with the usual array of Western fast food outlets, beach bars and restaurants. As the sun sets, this is the place to be if you want to be part of the action; from boozy pubs and hip nightclubs in the centre of town to restaurants, bars and parties dotted along the beach.

South from Chaweng, is the quieter Hat Lamai.

This 4-kilometre long beach is popular with package holiday tourists and backpackers. During the day, it’s relatively peaceful, with less beach hawkers padding the sand and just a couple of jet skis available for rent. As the afternoon draws on however, the sleezy girlie bars and English pubs start to open up for a night of hedonism.

At the northeastern tip of the island, sits the pretty bay of Hat Cheong Mon.

This area consists of mostly high-end resorts and family-friendly hotels. In fact, one side of the bay, owned by an ultra-luxurious resort, is closed off to the public. This is a beautiful little spot to while away the day under a palm tree. I found the locals to be incredibly friendly here as well. There are a handful of restaurants and bars spread around the bay and the vibe is very low key.

When?
The best time to go to Ko Samui is between February and June, when it will be HOT. The rainy season lasts from July to October, and monsoons are expected around November.

Where to stay?
It depends on what you're after. I stayed in a little apartment in Bo Phut, called the B1 Villa and Spa (I don’t know the owners!). It had a little kitchenette, lounge room, bedroom and balcony overlooking the beach and beyond. It was a bargain (for Samui) at 3500 baht (around USD 110.00), including breakfast at a nearby café.

How to get there?
Ko Samui has it’s own airport, with daily flights to and from various places in Thailand, as well as from Hong Kong and Singapore.

There are a number of ferries to Ko Samui from the mainland, at Surat Thani, each with varying times and prices (roughly 200 baht).

If you are travelling from Bangkok by road, there are combination bus and ferry tickets at around 700 - 1000 baht (these are available at the Southern bus terminal in Bangkok).

Food tour of Japan, Part 1

2010-06-04T14:17:00.000+01:00

Japanese food: California rolls, teppanyaki and tempura, right? Not even close. One of the big draw cards to traveling through Japan is the food - and not the aforementioned staples that appear in just about every Japanese restaurant outside of Japan. I’m talking about an abundant array of the freshest seafood, soups based on 300-old recipes, homemade candies and sweets carefully wrapped in layer upon layer of washi (handmade paper).

The dishes change with the seasons, and are never the same from region to region. The Japanese take the upmost pride in their cuisine, where each region specialises in cooking a particular dish or with a certain ingredient. It’s not unusual for people to travel from all over the country just to sample the best oysters (in Hiroshima). In the rural town of Obuse, kuri okowa (chestnut sweets) are the specialty. The northern city of Sapporo is famous for its jingisukan (a Mongolian-style lamb BBQ).

No matter what your budget, you can always eat well in Japan. You can feast on a kaiseki meal for a cost of up to 40,000 yen (USD 450!) in a ryokan, or slurp down a bowl of ramen for 800 yen (USD 9) at a noodle bar. Here are some of the best food finds in Japan.

Tonkatsu
The first time I ate this was in Tokyo, in a little mom-and-pop eatery that specialised in tonkatsu (breaded, deep fried pork). Seated at the bar, overlooking the kitchen, I watched the chef do his magic. He pummeled the pork cutlet flat, dipped it briefly in a thick gooey batter and placed it in a fryer for ten minutes. Sounds simple, but the final result was out of this world! Imagine crunchy golden flakes on the outside, and meat that just about melts in your mouth on the inside – it was amazing. It's usually served with shredded cabbage, miso and rice. My favourite variation is the katsu karē, which is served with a rich stew-like curry:

Green tea ice cream
The Japanese have the strangest ice cream flavours, like black sesame, sweet potato and red bean – but they all taste pretty good! My favourite has to be the green tea flavour, made from matcha (powdered green tea). Forget the Haagen-dazs version, and go for the soft serve variety sold on the street just about anywhere:

Melonpan
A sweet bun filled with melon flavoured cream inside – so good!

Vending machine drinks
Maybe it’s just the idea of getting a can of beer, latte or steaming bowl of noodles from a vending machine, but I love these things. They are cheap, can be found everywhere and are really easy to use. I especially like these hot vitamin C drinks in winter:

Takoyaki
These octopus balls are a specialty in Osaka, but can be found all over Japan. The dumplings, consisting of batter, octopus and vegetables, are cooked on a griddle and served with a sauce made from mayonnaise and aonori (seaweed). Be careful when you eat these – they burst in your mouth and can really hurt!

Soba
Soba noodles are served hot or cold, most likely with a dipping sauce and condiments. Made from buckwheat, they are a delicious gluten free alternative to the plethoras of noodles in Japan. There are different types of soba dishes to try, each with varying accompaniments and sauces. My favourite is zaru soba; cold soba noodles served on a bamboo tray, topped with nori seaweed. The teapot shaped container in the photo contains soba tsuyu, which is a sauce made up of dashi (Japanese stock), soy sauce and mirin (rice wine). The soba noodles are dipped into the sauce as you eat them. It's really refreshing!

Japanese sweets
Preparation and presentation of food is an art form in Japanese culture, and a perfect example of this is how they package their sweets and snacks. Delicately wrapped in furoshiki (decorative cloth) and washi, they look so beautiful and make perfect gifts for people back home.

There are so many varieties of sweets in Japan sold around temples, department stores, street stalls, specialist sweet shops and many other places. Here are some of my favourites:

* Daifuku. I first tried these in Bangkok, but they taste so much better in Japan. The glutinous rice balls are filled with a sweet filling – the banana flavour amazing!
* Seize the inner-kid in you and scoff down konpeito (hard colorful rock candy).
* Similar to other Asian shaved ice desserts, kakigōri is a nice summer treat found on the street and in cafes all over the country. The shaved ice is topped with a flavoured syrup and can also include ice cream, red bean paste, fruit and condensed milk.
* Manjū, which is a steamed cake made from rice flour and buckwheat, filled with red bean paste - these are best eaten hot!

Part 2 to come later!

Recollections of Angkor Wat, in Siem Reap

2010-05-30T17:44:00.003+01:00

On the morning of my second day in Siem Reap I broke my foot inside Angkor Wat. I was exploring the maze of galleries and rooms inside the central complex, when I stepped into a darkened corridor, and with a pop, my foot twisted and broke between two large tiles. Long story short, I was assisted out of the temple by some extremely kind strangers and received treatment at the hospital in Siem Reap, then later on in Bangkok.

But, rather than go into a long-winded story about that experience, I wanted to reflect on my time at the temple prior to that. It was so majestic and awe inspiring, that I still treasure the small amount of time I had at Angkor Wat, and the surrounding temples. Here are some of my recollections and photos of Angkor Wat:

Arriving at the main entrance early in the morning, I see that it’s already quite busy. People trickle into the temple complex as children trail behind them, peddling bracelets and postcards. Women walk by, balancing large plastic bags on their heads. Men tout for business as tour guides.

Walking down the sandstone causeway, the moat is still and glistening under the already blazing sun. I can see the temple ahead, under a silvery sheen of light.

Approaching the gate at the outer wall, I notice an old man sitting cross-legged on the ancient steps, taking in the scene, a faint smile across his lips. He looks like a guardian of the temple.

The 235 metre long outer wall has a number of gates and entry points, some wide enough to let an elephant through, earning the name Elephant Gate. These walls are adorned with intricately carved devatas (female deities) and balustered windows.

Stepping out of the gate, the weight of where I am hits me. The sheer size, scale and beauty of the temple is overwhelming. A 350 metre long causeway stretches across yellow plains, leading to the main temple. In the distance is the silhouette of the three domed towers under the white light.

Halfway down the causeway, to the left, stands a small library. A dog rests on a windowsill, probably to escape the heat outside! Sitting on the steps of the library, I notice that now there is a constant stream of people walking up and down the causeway. By the pool, groups of tourists are jostling for a position to get the best photo op. Back towards Elephant Gate the sun-scorched earth bakes under a hazy blue sky.

Inside the central complex, I pass through a series of corridors and well preserved galleries, lined with stone pillars. Asparas (dancing female deities) are beautifully carved in the walls.

A group of monks are wandering the corridors, armed with video cameras, capturing a piece of history as well. To the far left of the complex is one of two internal libraries. Its cool and quiet here – I sit on a ledge in the shade, taking in the surroundings, enjoying the silence, calm and the cool breeze.

After a while, I muster up my will to leave, to explore the upper levels of the complex. But unfortunately I broke my foot not long after this. I guess its an excuse to return!

When I was arranging my trip to Siem Reap, I initially planned to be there for a week. I wanted to explore the region at a leisurely pace, see the lesser known temples, and do other things like visit an orphanage and see Tonle Sap lake.

When I was doing my research for this trip, I noticed that a lot of people were only interested in seeing the temples in short amount of time - feeling that they would probably get 'templed out' after a day or so. From what little I saw of Siem Reap, there is more than enough to keep you interested for a week, at least, so I would definitely recommend staying longer.

However, I realise this is not possible for everyone, so I'll probably write another post a little later on on how to see some of the 'top' temples in one day (which is what I happened to do on my first day).

Where
Angkor Wat is located in Siem Reap, in Cambodia. You can fly direct to Siem Reap from Bangkok (Thailand), Vientienne and Pakse (Laos), Singapore, Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia), Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam). If you are already in Phnom Penh (Cambodia), you can fly, bus it or catch a boat to Siem Reap.

What time of year
Angkor Wat can be visited at any time of the year. The cool season lasts from November to March, with December and January being the coolest months - still extremely hot at an average of 27 degree Celsius (80 degree Fahrenheit). Exploring the temples at this temperature will be more manageable, but the temple will be extremely crowded.

March to May is the hot season and not to be taken lightly, when temperatures can go beyond 40 degree Celsius (104 degree Fahrenheit). However, its a lot quieter and if you plan your day right, you can almost have the temples to yourself.

The rainy season lasts from June to October. This is when the temples are at their most lush, and are also quieter than the popular cooler months. Just be prepared to deal with downpours at any given time and up to 90% humidity.

How much
A one day (USD 20), three day (USD 40) or seven day (USD 60) can be used for entry to all of the temples in the area. They can be purchased from the entrance booth on the main road leading to Angkor Wat. Bring along a passport photo, or have your photo taken there.

Staying in a ryokan, in Nikko

2010-05-19T19:35:00.005+01:00

Traveling through Japan is exhilarating. You’ll see neon cityscapes, eclectic fashions, high-speed trains and frenzied festivals. In an instant the scene changes to mountaintop temples, zen gardens, onsens and tea ceremonies. There are so many things to do and see in this amazing country that it’s not hard to go from one site to the next without really interacting with the people, let alone immerse yourself in the culture.

If you are only in Japan for a short amount of time, staying in a ryokan is a chance to do just that. By participating in a long-held Japanese custom, it provides an opportunity to see a side of Japan that just wouldn’t be possible by staying in a nondescript hotel. For me, it was one of the highlights of my trip amongst many other memorable, surprising and bizarre moments.

A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn, designed to enhance relaxation and calm. Some have been around for centuries, dating back to the Edo-period when samurai and other travelers would stay in a ryokan to rest during their travels through the country. These traditional style ryokans are typified by a Spartan design of tatami matting, paper screens and futons. Multi-course meals, known as kaiseki, are a highlight of the stay and included in the room price.

There are other types of ryokan, in addition to the traditional style. Luxury ryokans place emphasis on pampering their guests - with a bill to match! A modern ryokan caters more to travelers who can’t go without extra comforts like a western-style bed, mini bar and TV. A standard ryokan (the cheapest) is the most basic, with the building usually lacking the character and charm that is associated with traditional ryokans, but still has the Japanese service expected.

On an overnight trip to Nikko, home to the World-Heritage listed Tosho-gu shrine complex, I stayed in a traditional ryokan, Hoshino Yado (I'll cover Nikko on another post).

The guestroom consists of 3 separate rooms that felt more like an apartment. A long wood-paneled hallway, with a trickling bamboo water feature is positioned at the end, leading into the living room. The design of this room is simple; tatami mats cover the floor, a low-rise lacquered table and chairs are strategically placed in the centre, the wall adorned with a hanging scroll.

Sitting in the corner of the room, instead of the usual mini bar and Lipton tea bags, is a kettle, teapot and selection of Japanese teas. The owner advises me on when I should have each one- the matcha tea in the afternoon, a digestive tea after dinner and a simple green tea first thing in the morning.

At the end of the room is a rice-papered screen that once opened, leads onto a closed in verandah overlooking the zen gardens and ponds.

The second tatami covered bedroom is empty. The futons are packed away on one side of the wardrobe, while on the other side yukatas are neatly arranged on a shelf. I was told that the dark purple yukata is to be worn to the ryokans onsen (hot spring bath), and the lighter yukata is to be worn to dinner and breakfast.

In the corner of the bathroom sits a Japanese style bath – square and deep, with a little ledge to sit on – a much more practical way of bathing! On the vanity, glass and porcelain bottled perfumes, lotions and wipes are laid out for guests to use.

Being near the hotsprings, the ryokan has its own onsen (hot spring baths). These are same sex communal baths, both indoor and outdoor. The outdoor cedar bath is in a peaceful setting, overlooking the tranquil Japanese gardens.

For dinner, the ryokan serves a traditional twelve-course meal centred around tofu (their local specialty). As each beautifully presented course arrives, a woman explains what it is and how it is to be eaten. The tofu is prepared in every way imaginable - boiled tofu, fried tofu, tofu soup, tofu custard, savoury tofu, sweet tofu – I like tofu but after six courses I was ready to try something else!

Returning to the room after dinner, the living room had been turned into the bedroom. Futons are assembled in the corner of the room, and hot digestive tea has been prepared. The futon was so comfortable – just the right balance of soft and firm – it was actually my best sleep in Japan!

A traditional Japanese breakfast is served in the morning; baked salmon, two types of tofu (of course!), pickled vegetables, rice, soup and tea. It was a feast and something I could get used to having every day!

How do I book a stay?
I used Japanese Guesthouse to book a stay at a ryokan. The website lists hundreds of ryokans in Japan; classified by region, price, style and facilities. You pay them and they handle the booking and arrangements.

The Japanese Ryokan Association can also arrange stays.

How much is it?
Staying in a ryokan is expensive, but so is the rest of the accommodation in Japan! Also, remember breakfast and dinner is usually included. One night can cost anywhere between JPY 7,000 to JPY 100,000 per person, per night (about USD 75 – 1000).

Food tour of Thonglor, at everthenomad

2010-05-14T12:03:00.003+01:00

This week I was thrilled to be invited to write a guest post for one of my favourite travel blogs, everthenomad. everthenomad is the creation of Anja Mutic, a prominent travel writer who has written for Lonely Planet, Rough Guides and Time Out (to name a few). Her passion for travel has taken her to – and written about - every continent except Antarctica. So, it’s a huge honour to have the opportunity to contribute to her blog.

I’ve spent the last 3+ years in Bangkok, so Anja was interested in hearing about some of the things to do off the tourist trail. I decided to write about my familiar piece of Bangkok, my neighbourhood of Thonglor. As I mentioned in the article, residents of Bangkok do two things on the weekend – shop and eat – so I thought it appropriate that I concentrate on the multitude of food finds in the area. Take a look at the article to find out about where to get the best ramen in the city, gigantic mangos for a bargain or where to get you carb fix – all in one street!

I’ve only covered a handful of places in the area, so I’ll be posting a follow up blog in the future that will give you an insight into some of the other food finds in the area like Korean BBQ houses, English tearooms and Laotian restaurants.

Escape to Khao Lak, on the Andaman Coast

2010-05-10T15:59:00.006+01:00

Long walks on golden sands, swimming in azure waters, reading a book and sipping a coconut shake. Not a jet ski in sight. With its laid-back vibe, reasonably priced accommodation and proximity to numerous natural attractions, Khao Lak is an excellent alternative to its well-trodden neighbour, Phuket.

Situated in Phang-Nga Province, Khao Lak is just an hour’s drive from Phuket. Sadly, this area was one of the worst hit spots of the 2004 tsunami, where its been estimated up to 10,000 locals and tourists died here. Almost all of the beachfront properties (and a large majority inland) were either completely flattened or partially destroyed. With the help of volunteers and aid groups, the community has slowly been rebuilding.

As a result of the tsunami, there are still parts of Khao Lak that are completely undeveloped, feeling almost deserted and isolated from the steady development in other parts of town.

Khao Lak has three main beaches. Khao Lak Beach, to the south, is more isolated and seems to cater more to the backpacker crowd (although there are some mid-priced options). Nang Thong Beach is the most popular with package holiday tourists and can get quite busy (it’s still beautiful though and no where near as crowded as most beaches in Phuket). Bang Niang Beach, to the north, largely consists of luxury resorts or mid-range hotels (although there are a few budget options as well).

We stayed in Bang Niang, at the Ramada (a mid-priced option), during the December 08 Bangkok protests, and were able to get a room at more than half the price. The hotel itself was, in my opinion, way overpriced and pretentious – I would not recommend staying here – there are far cheaper options. Bang Niang, however, was stunning, relaxing and quiet.

The beach is wide and long, and safe for swimming (at least in high season, when I was there) and dotted with little beach cafes, bars and restaurants.

Chongfah restaurant, located halfway down the beach, is excellent. It’s a typical beachfront Thai restaurant, specializing in seafood as well as the usual Thai dishes. It’s really cheap, but still pretty authentic, given its location. It’s a laid-back place to have a cocktail or beer and watch the sun set.

Walking north of Bang Niang Beach, past a river crossing, is the unspoilt Khuk Khak Beach. Nearly three kilometers long, and with only one or two small properties on the beachfront, this feels more like a deserted island. The only sign of life are the locals looking for sand crabs on the beach, or the occasional person passing by on a walk.

Khao Lak is also a good base for dive and snorkeling trips to the world-class Similan and Surin islands. There are plenty of dive shops in the centre of town, offering day or live-aboard trips, though the day trips are rushed.

When?
The peak season is November to April, with December to February the busiest period. Rainy season is from May to October – there won’t be clear skies every day, the beach may be rough – but the area is less crowded and you can get better accommodation deals.

How to get there?
Phuket Airport is 70 km to the south of Khao Lak. A taxi takes just over an hour and costs roughly 1500-2000 baht. Buses running from Phuket to Takua Pa or Ranong can drop you off anywhere along Highway in Khao Lak (ask the driver). It costs 60 baht and takes around 2 hours.

Explore the village of Kampung Baru, in KL

2010-05-03T16:03:00.006+01:00

Kampung Baru is one of the last traditional Malay villages left in the city of Kuala Lumpur (KL). Often overlooked by travellers, it’s a unique opportunity to see a slice of traditional Malay life, by spending a few quiet hours wandering the streets of this old neighbourhood.

Kampung Baru is located on the outskirts of the city. With its old wooden houses still intact, and the Petronas Towers looming overhead, it’s easy to see why this sleepy village is under threat of redevelopment.

The locals, however, are incredibly friendly and welcoming, and appreciate the interest in their way of life. It’s a picturesque place to stroll, where you can see locals going about their daily routines, as the skyscrapers of the city act as a backdrop. It’s also a good chance to get away from “the pack”, where it’s unlikely you’ll come across another tourist on your trail. These are a few of the moments I captured, one morning:

So many times I saw friendly kids waving hello on their way to school.

Locals ordering lunch at “drive-through” stalls on their motorbikes.

Women, in gorgeous patterned Malay patterned textiles, doing their daily chores.

If you time your visit around lunch, there are lots of authentic and cheap Malay restaurants to choose from on Jalan Raja Muda Musa.

Where?

The village is north of the Petronas Towers and runs roughly from Jalan Sungai Baharu to Jalan Daud and Jalan Raja Uda. Map.

The easiest way to get there is to take a taxi to Kampung Baru Mosque. From there, explore the streets by heading in the direction of the Petronas Towers ahead. The end point, where the village meets the city, is at LRT Kampung Baru station.

If you are strapped for cash, there's no need to take a taxi - just take the LRT to Kampung Baru station, your walk around Kampung Baru will take longer, but your likely to see more that way!

When?

Any time of the day, although the morning will be a little cooler.

Staying at the Blue Mansion, in Penang

2010-04-29T16:10:00.018+01:00

The stunning UNESCO listed Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion is a museum that also functions as a boutique hotel in Penang, Malaysia. The mansion can be visited on a guided tour at set times during the day and visitors aren’t allowed to take photographs. By staying here overnight, however, you can freely explore and photograph the 38 rooms inside the mansion. It’s a much more fascinating and rewarding experience, allowing you to take in the detail and history of the building.

Built by a Chinese merchant, Cheong Fatt Tze, in the 1880’s, the design beautifully combines Southern Chinese architecture (Hakka-Teochew) with Western design features. It was decorated, and later restored, using a range of techniques and crafts from all over the world. With its distinct blue exterior, painted with natural dyes extracted from an Indigo plant, the mansion has earned the title “The Blue Mansion”.

The mansion was designed with feng shui principles in mind, with the house built around a central courtyard, allowing light to flood into the building.

The interior has been lovingly preserved, with its intricate design features that are enhanced by elaborate decorations and antiques.

The Gothic lourved windows are fitted with Art Nouveau stained glass. Scottish ironworks have been painted with gold leaf.

Porcelain works, called Chien Nien, were imported from China. The craft involves cutting delicate rice bowls and painstakingly arranging the pieces into patterns and designs.

The mansion has 12 guest rooms, each with its own theme with names like ‘Hakka’, ‘Peony’ and ‘Nanyang’. Do not expect luxury or mod cons. The rooms are old and the furniture is quite dated. At times the service can appear to be a little aloof. However, the common areas (the courtyard, the library and lounges) are peaceful and inviting, and it is a unique opportunity to stay in a house with so much history.

Where?
14 Lebuh Leith, Georgetown, in Penang.
Map

How much?
It varies depending on what type of room you choose. Rooms start at RM350 (about USD100) per night, and includes breakfast for 2.

Guided tours are scheduled at 11am and 3pm daily, and cost RM10.

More info
http://www.cheongfatttzemansion.com/

Geisha spotting in Gion, Kyoto

2010-04-26T17:13:00.015+01:00

Many visitors to Kyoto are thrilled when they spot a “Geisha” walking alongside them in the street. Giggling and stumbling along the cobbled lanes, they happily pose for the tourists, who are understandably excited to see a real life Geisha (and have the photos the prove it!). More times than not, however, these women are actually Japanese tourists that pay to dress up as a Geisha for a day:

So, how can you tell if you are looking at a genuine Geisha? And where is the best place to catch a glimpse of one?

Firstly, if the Geisha are laughing and posing for the camera, more times than not, they aren’t the real deal. Geisha and Maiko (apprentice Geisha) are usually demure and coy, and are rarely seen during the day. Another telltale sign is how they move – a refined Geisha does not trip and stumble! She glides effortlessly along the paved streets, posture-perfect with her head down so as not to attract attention.

80 years ago, there were around 80,000 Geisha in Japan. Today, there are approximately 1000 women left in the profession, with most residing in Kyoto. The district of Gion, in Kyoto, is home to the highest ranking Geisha in all of Japan. They are called geiko. It’s possible to see a geiko, without having to pay the hefty price to be in their presence for a night.

After sunset, the streets of Gion become a hive of activity, where locals and tourists fill the old teahouses, restaurants and theatres. Hanamikoji-dori, a pretty street lined with red lanterns and preserved merchant houses, is the best place to spot a Geisha.

Around 6–7pm, Geisha and Maiko can be glimpsed making their way to an appointment with a client. The scene can be quite chaotic at times, with crowds of people waiting to get the same shot as you – it starts to feel a little like you are a member of the paparazzi! The Geisha have become adept at bypassing these crowds.

To separate yourself from these crowds, and to increase your chance of running into a Geisha, make your way down one of the little alleys. Look out for black cars that are parked on the side of the street – these cars are usually waiting to take the Geisha to an appointment or drop them off at one of the teahouses.

When?

After sunset, usually around 6–7pm.

Where?

Hanamikoji-dori, in Gion. Take the train to Keihan-Shijo station. Walk down Shijo-dori (direction away from Kamo River). Hanamiko-dori is 3 blocks on your right.

Street food on Soi 38, Bangkok

2010-04-22T16:54:00.011+01:00

Thai people eat out 6 nights a week – and there’s a good reason for that. Street food is a part of everyday life in Bangkok. No matter what time of the day (or night) it is, fresh, inexpensive and authentic food is just a corner away. To sample some of the best street food in Bangkok, head to Soi 38, off Sukhumvit.

The soi comes to life after 7pm, when vendors start setting up their makeshift kitchens along the side of the road. For informal dining at its best, eat at one of these stalls, where the food is prepared and cooked to order. One word of advice: do as the locals do, and wipe your cutlery with the napkins!

There are so many dishes to try, but these are some of the highlights; gai satay (chicken satay sticks with peanut dipping sauce), kha moo (pork knuckle stewed in spices) and khao man kai (Hainanese chicken rice, below).

You can also dine at one of the neon-lit mom-and-pop shops that line the length of the road. Don’t be put off by the Spartan interior and no-fuss service. The food here is so much more complex and traditional than many other tourist oriented restaurants in the city.

Top off the meal with a fresh coconut juice, tropical shake or Thai beer.

How much?

A full meal for two, with drinks, costs no more than 400 baht (around 12 USD) – a bargain.

How do I get there?

Take the BTS to Thong Lo station. It a 1 minute walk from there.